Sedgefield was previously known as "Steenbok Eiland", and during this period the settlement was used mainly for agricultural activities. Wheat, rye and barley flourishes due to the excellent rainfall. Small antelope such as bushbuck and duiker roamed the area. Species which are still abundant today.

In the early 1900’s, the Right Honorable, Henry Frederick Adaire Barrington immigrated from the small village of Sedgefield, in county Durham, in the North of England, and settled on a farm, Portland, in the Knysna District. Henry Barrington was the eighth of fifteen children of the Right Honorable and Reverend George, Fifth Viscount Barrington, Rector of Sedgefield. Henry became involved in this area and named it “Sedgefield”, in honor of his father.

During the early 1920’s, the Watney family settled in Sedgefield and played an important role in the development of this area. Sedgefield was a remote undeveloped area, until the introduction in 1928, of the railway line between George and Knysna. At the instigation of JGB Watney the town was set out in erven, and this attracted more residents to the area. Sedgefield was proclaimed a town in 1929 and fell under the management of the Divisional Council of George.

After World War II, a new coastal road was constructed and Sedgefield now being more accessible, expanded along the banks of the estuary towards the Swartvlei Lake. Sedgefield established a Village Management Board in 1956 and the town obtained Municipal Status in 1974.

Sedgefield is situated in the Heart of the Lakes District of the Garden Route, with the town being surrounded by the Groenvlei Lake, the Swartvlei Lagoon, and Swartvlei Lake, and the Indian Ocean on the south side. This is an area of natural flora and a vast bird population. Various hiking trails and vast expanses of magnificent unspoiled beaches, plus the lagoon, provide for safe bathing and a variety of water sports.

The sports complex caters for tennis, netball and rugby. Bowls is a popular pastime with many residents and a Bowling Club has also been established. The town has a permanent population of approximately 4 500 people, which grows to over 25,000 during the December/January summer holiday season.

The Outeniqua Choo Tjoe Steam Train stops at the Sedgefield station several times a day, transporting passengers between Knysna and George, and is a popular tourist attraction.

Local shops offer a variety of articles - from antiques, curio's and various handmade goods, many made of indigenous woods. The town has several supermarkets, butcheries, hardware stores, nurseries and pharmacies. There is also an excellent choice of several excellent restaurants. In addition, there are two primary schools, three doctors and two dentists in Sedgefield.

The maximum average rainfall for Sedgefield is 750mm per annum, which explains why the area is green with lush vegetation all year round. A scientific study done some time ago by the University of Stellenbosch also credits Sedgefield with the most temperate climate in Africa.

Origin of the Lakes

The entire area, from the Touw River (Wilderness), to the Goukamma River was a shallow basin with the sea level being 8 meters higher than today and the shoreline reached the rocky escarpment, north of the lakes. This was during the Pleistocene period, approximately one million years ago. As the shore receded, wave action formed dunes, and rivers were diverted along the valleys between the dunes.

About 22,000 to 16 000 years ago (Glacial Period), the Langvlei and Groenvlei basins were produced as submerged areas behind the dunes. The valley's that was to become Swartvlei and Knysna were also simultaneously formed.

The sea receded about 130 meters below the present level and then rose to a level 5 meters above the current level, resulting in flooding of the river and dunes.

Sedgefield as it is today.

The sea dropped again to about four meters below the present level, and a dune ridge resulted south of the Serpentine towards the sea; isolating Island Lake for the first time. The Groenvlei retained a connection by extending westwards to the Swartvlei estuary. During this period, the Rondevlei was formed by wind as a deflation basin. The Rondevlei was flooded approximately 7000 years ago when the sea level rose 1.5 meters above the current level. The continued dune depositing resulted in the isolation of Groenvlei from the sea, and caused Rondevlei, Langvlei and Island Lake to interconnect. The Serpentine between the Touw River and Island Lake was also formed and it is over 15 kilometer's in length, and is connected to the sea.

The mouth of estuaries shift with the migration of large dunes, mostly from west to east. The best example is the Swartvlei, which previously opened into the bay at Gericke’s Point - about two kilometer's from its present location. The natural process of the evolution of these lakes takes place at a rate of about 1 to 2mm. per annum.

The Swartvlei

Approximately 45,000 to 16,000 years ago, the valley that was to emerge as the Swartvlei was simultaneously formed when the Langvlei and Groenvlei basins were produced as submerged areas behind the dunes.

The Wolwe, Hoekraal and Karatara rivers scoured out the flat area where the Swartvlei is presently situated and was assisted by dune erosion.

Approximately 4000 years ago the sea level was more or less the same as its current height; but 16,000 years ago the level was 120m lower.

The Swartvlei is transversed by the N2 national highway and railway bridges. When the mouth of the lagoon is open to the sea, it enables it to become tidal. The difference between the rise and fall of the lagoon is however rapid resulting in the tidal difference at the railway bridge to be virtually zero.

The C.S.I.R. conducted a thorough investigation in 1983 using scale models. The water movement indicated that the railway bridge and highway bridge had no serious impact on the water levels and their impact caused a rise of only a few millimeters.

The primary food source for the large population of aquatic and birdlife in Swartvlei is primarily the aquatic plants and reeds. The reeds constitute about 12% of the food available and growth of these reeds is limited to a maximum depth of 3 meters.

The Swartvlei Statistics – 61 aquatic bird species exist, and a high number of them belong to an endangered species.

There are 33 fish species in the lake, and 58 in the estuary. Several amphibian species, (including frogs), 26 reptile species, including snakes and tortoises, and 20 types of mammals.

The lake is 8,8 square kilometers, and the estuary is 7,2 square kilometers. The main depth is 5,5 meters to a maximum of 16,7 meters.

At one stage a great attraction for tourists visiting the Swartvlei was the arrival of great numbers of pink flamingo's.

When the mouth is closed, large sections of decaying algae are evident, but pose no risk to humans. The Swartvlei is a healthy eco-system with little pollution.

The opening and closing of the mouth should be allowed to function naturally without being affected by the artificial opening of the mouth. Water sports and recreation, as well as dredging, can for example upset the system. Monitoring and control of the lagoon is overseen by the C.S.I.R and National Parks Board. The water area of Swartvlei has been declared a National Park, which is controlled by the Parks Board.

The “Mother” of Sedgefield

Mrs. Elaine Watney, the “Mother” of Sedgefield, was born in Kent, England, in 1890, as Florence Elaine Wallis. She arrived in South Africa in 1927 where she worked as governess to the children of a wealthy family in the farming area of Tzaneen. There she met and married JGB (Blanco) Watney.

In 1947, the Watney’s moved from the Sedgefield area to a farm they purchased in George. It was at that time that the new coastal road between George and Knysna was constructed and Sedgefield had become more accessible than a mere donkey-cart track. The Watney's bought the long established, but vacant, Sedgefield township from Thesen’s of Knysna, and had the area re-surveyed by Mr. T. Moodie.

After her husband, Blanco, died in 1952, Elaine took control of the administration of the township. She also established the town's original wooden library in memory of her husband. She assisted the colored residents in improving their status, and even carted water daily to their school near the railway line. She later formed the Ladies’ Work Party, which still continues with a school feeding scheme. The formation of a Girl Guides and Brownie Pack was also her doing.

In 1967, with the growing village of Sedgefield in need of a church, she loaned money for the construction of a Inter-Denominational Church building in Swallow Drive. The church was used by Anglican, Baptist, Methodist, Presbyterian as well as Dutch Reformed congregations.

In 1968, Elaine was voted onto the first committee of the Village Management Board. In 1970 the local authority purchased the present Town Hall, which was erected some year earlier and used for film shows. Such was the quantity and variety of shows and plays that were staged under the her leadership, that she donated a piano - which is still in use today.

In the early 1980’s, prominent Sedgefield members paved the way for a retirement home for its older citizens, and Elaine sold her large property to establish Sedgemeer Park where she stayed as a resident. On 2 April 1983, she celebrated her 93rd birthday in her home.

The Other Sedgefield

When Mrs. Elaine Watney was on holiday in England some time ago, she submitted a photographic spool for development before returning to South Africa. She instructioned them to post the processed film to be posted to her in Sedgefield, South Africa.

After a lengthy delay and many enquiries later, it transpired that the parcel was incorrectly delivered to Sedgefield, England. Subsequently a postal friendship developed, and Mrs. Watney received a copy of the “Sedgefield Extra” from England. Similarities of editorial between the Sedgefield News Bulletin, here at home, and the Sedgefield Extra in England emerged as follows:-

A line of editorial reads: “We aim to keep our contents information unprejudiced and brief.”

Snippets about “local personalities”.

News about Sedgefield schools.

News on local organizations, including charity events.

Notes from the Town Council.

An appeal to residents to assist in beautifying the village.

Causes for concern: Children on bikes on the pavement

Irregular parking in the village center

Motorcyclists using the environs as skid tracks.

Accompanying the “Sedgefield Extra” was a copy of a guide to a beautiful parish church of St. Edmunds, (founded between AD 900 and 915 with a wooden church).

In AD 1085 with the arrival of the Normans, the stone church was erected. The present church was constructed between 1246 to 1246. Until 1965, an evening curfew was rung from the bell tower every night at 9.00pm. (By order, of William the Conqueror over 800 years ago).

The J.G.B. Memorial Library

As early as the 1950’s efforts had been made to establish a local lending library. The library operated initially from the storeroom of a Mr. Walter Muller’s shop with a total of 350 books. It was then relocated to the Sedgefield Investment offices and thereafter to Mr. Boshoff’s Stinkwood Novelty Shop. After the arrival in Sedgefield of Miss Germaine Rouilland, a widely read and nature loving lady, who run a library from her own garage, and then moved the contents to another hired garage.

The first minuted library committee meeting was held on 8 June, 1961. Mrs. Elaine Watney was the Secretary, and the other committee members were Miss Rouilland, Dr. Brown, Mrs. Hampson and Miss Juliana van der Westhuizen. Miss Rouilland advised on an increase of books from 937 to 1142 during the past year, and that membership was 121 adults and 31 children. The Regional Library Inspector was satisfied with these details, and it was evident that ground for a permanent Sedgefield Library was necessary. In the meantime books were housed in the garage of Moreson House.

In late 1961, plot 211 was purchased for R700,00, and a loan was to be raised for this. A new building was planned to display 3 200 books with additional shelves for expansion and the introduction of a card book system. In May 1962, Miss Rouilland officially opened the library and Mrs. Boet Smuts arranged for tea in Mr. Smut’s hall (the present Municipal Hall) at 2 shillings per head.

In recognition of a gift from Mrs. Elaine Watney and in memory of her late husband, it was decided to name the Library ‘Watney Memorial Library’. The librarian also had art prints available with lectures offered on the pictures and artists. The Divisional Council insisted that Libraries must be, “Pivots of Culture” for the community, and lectures were presented on bird life and ceramics.

Miss. Rouilland, also an accomplished artist, conducted art classes for children and an exhibition of Child Art was held. Pictures and collages were exhibited at the Knysna Art Exhibition in 1966.

During 1963, cinema shows were held at the library and long-playing records were also available for lending. A weekly story hour was introduced to attract and entertain the children.

After Miss Rouilland’s retirement, Mrs. Maud Stigling was appointed and continued in the same friendly manner, as well as maintaining the beautiful established garden. Next followed, Miss Betty Moodie, and then, Mrs. Ricky Norden as librarians.

As time progressed and Sedgefield expanded, the Watney memorial Library opened its new spacious and attractive building with a Children’s Section, designed by Architect, Mr. Malcolm Fraser.

The Art lending section and the new high-fidelity music center are a wonderful asset.

The initial small library has been converted into a minor hall and has staged successful CAPAB productions.

Current statistics show in excess of 1700 members and over 15 000 books.

The "Bird Man" of Sedgefield

Several of the long established residents of Sedgefield had been attracted to this village as visitors, only to finally be drawn under its spell of beauty and tranquillity. Reverend Wilfred Hartly was a much-loved Methodist minister and his retirement home was one of the original wooden cottages built by Willem Klein, many years ago. During the 1960’s Wilfred’s young brother Kidger, and his wife, Eleanor, bought the rumbling home of Dr. Olivier, and began a protea planting project in the large garden. An extensive indigenous area finally emerged with many Protea’s being grown from seeds that Kidger Hartley had brought with him from Kimberley.

The large Protea garden attracted many birds. To feed this every growing population, Kidger and Eleanor collected and planted grass seeds and began a “wormery” to produce food. Kidger build bigger and better aviaries and at one stage fed over 200 Rooibekkies. An injured Starling would eat Pronutro from Eleanor’s shoulder, and the Forked Tailed Drongos demonstrated absolute precision in catching cheese pieces thrown to them. As many as 20 Guinea Fowl would feed in the Hartley gardens. Kidger Hartley had affectionately became known as Sedgefield’s “Bird Man”.

Sedgemeer Park

Due to the lack of care facilities for the elderly and frail, a small group of citizens formed a steering committee in 1984 to establish a Retirement Scheme for themselves.

After extensive research, an establishment was produced to care for the elderly folk of Sedgefield in the form of compact housing units, ensuring them continued independence and security.

Sedgemeer Park, at the corner of Flamingo and Kingfisher Drives is located on a large portion of property. At present the Park consists of three small units, each with its own lounge/dining room, bedroom, bathroom and mini-kitchen.

In comparison with similar associations in South Africa at the time, the units were low-priced due to the extremely low value of the property as offered by Mrs. Watney.

The Sedgefield Post Office

Mr. Noel Parrot and his wife Pauline ran a quaint General Dealer’s shop at the corner of Kingfisher Drive and Main Road. This popular shop sold anything and everything and it was also a great social place to discuss all the latest news of the area.

The Sedgefield Postal Agency and Postal Services rented a small section of the store as the first Sedgefield Post Office, and was separated from the main shop by a thin plywood partition. The first Post Office attendant (Sub Post- mistress), was Miss Kenna Terblance, who served across the counter of the partition. Her duties included forwarding telegram information to Knysna for dispatch from there, messages to and from other areas, stamps, parcels, the telephone switchboard. She also had to collect the postbags from the station!

The counter space was limited, and even more so, when buckets were placed there to catch the drips from the leaking roof when it rained.

As Sedgefield progressed, Miss Terblanche was transferred and replaced by a Miss Juliana van der Westhuizen. At this stage there were 50 postal boxes and 25 telephone numbers in the exchange. Miss Meyer was appointed as an assistant to deliver telegrams and collect the postbags. In her absence, the Postmistress had to report to fetching and carrying the postal bags from the station. The Station Mistress, Miss Hart, was only on duty at the station at times trains would arrive, and by special arrangement.

In 1955, the upgraded main road to Knysna made Sedgefield more accessible, and the general store was enlarged. Two telephone call boxes were installed on the eastern side of the building, and further behind, a new red G.P.O. mailbox. In 1973 the Post Office was moved to its current site at the corner of Flamingo and Fink Streets.

Shipwreck off Gericke’s Point

Situated off the Swartvlei Estuary, this prominent rock is called “Gericke’s Point”, and named after the owner of the adjoining land, Mr Gericke, in the 1800’s. On the 11th of February 1850, the 546-ton “NEPAUL” struck a submerged rock in a violent storm just off Gericke’s Point. The ship, registered in Greenock, Scotland, was bound for London from China and Bombay. On board was, Captain A. Mc Lean, a crew of 16, and as passengers, Dr. & Mrs. Bell, and Mrs. Drago with two daughters, aged seven and nine.

After three days of heavy pounding from the massive waves, the wrecked ship was driven ashore at the mouth of the Swartvlei Estuary. The female passengers had all been carried up the masts for safety, but were suffering from exposure. The ship lifeboats had been smashed to pieces, and the local residents could not offer any assistance either. Only by the fourth day when the seas had calmed, two constructed rafts and a line floated ashore, enabled everyone to be taken ashore. Five casualties resulted; the Chief Officer, William Henderson, drowned whilst attempting to reach shore tied to a hen-coop; sail mate, Dugald Blair, and the ship’s boy, John Davie, drowned whilst being ferried ashore; the two little girls were unconscious when carried ashore on the backs of the sailors.

Mr.and Mrs. Johannes Meeding, of the farm “Ruigtevlei”, cared for the survivors at their home. On the 23rd February, ten members of the crew sailed to Cape Town aboard the Forlen and the Captain and remaining crew boarded the Louisa at Mossel Bay soon after. One crew member named Tom, remained with the Meedings in their employ for 30 years until his death. The auctioned wreck was purchased by Mr. W. Hooper and Mr. G. Dutton for 900 pounds. A carved rosewood table, chairs and a chest of drawers from the NEPAUL are owned by descendants of the Meeding family, and a sideboard from the Meeding is on display in Milkwood House Museum, in Knysna.

After many years, the visible anchor at the mouth was recovered by Walter Muller, who placed it with the fluke’s upright outside his shop, which was aptly named, Anchor café. (Now Stop ‘n Stay Supermarket). When the Service Road was widened some years ago, the anchor was removed from the municipal road and placed on the lawn of the Forest Lodge Centre.

Karatara

The name ‘Karatara’ is of Khoi origin and the several definition of the name is “Horse Hill” and “Deep and Dark”. The village is situated five kilometres west of Barrington and some 40 kilometres north west of Knysna. Around 1922, the Carnegie Enquiry made plans to settle poor families working as government woodcutters in the forest into their own area. In 1939, the government relocated the woodcutters, who had worked in the indigenous forests on a freelance basis. In 1941 a settlement was established by the Department of Social Welfare and catered for about 100 white elderly and physically unfit families incapable of manual work.

Each settler family was allocated a plot with a house plus a monthly allowance. Karatara provides its own District Surgeon and trained nurse, a post office, shop, butcher and road motor service. In addition there is the N.G. Church with its own minister, plus a primary school and communal hall. In 1964, the Department of Social Welfare and Pensions erected an old aged home. The Karatara River, which was previously known as the Tsao or Witterivier, flows southwards into the Swartvlei.

The Southern Right Whale

The Southern Right Whale was named as such, since it was considered to be the “right” whale to catch. They are slow moving and float when killed, making it easier to bring them to shore. The only whale without a dorsal fin, they are rich in baleen, and are the most common whales off the Southern Coast. Their length is between 14 to 18 metres, with an average weight of approximately 54,000 kilograms, their tail flukes measure about 6 metres across and they can attain a cruising speed of 2 to 3 knots.

It was estimated that initially over 100 000 right whales inhabited the Southern Oceans. By 1927, these bulky animals had been over-exploited, and although protected since 1936, they are now the rarest large animals in the world. Present populations range from 3000-4000 with a slow recovery rate. The Southern Right Whale inhabits sub-Antarctica waters between 30 degrees and 50 degrees south, and migrate south during the summer months when krill are abundant. In the winter months they migrate north to mate and calve.

They are seen along our coast, and in particular in the bay along the Swartvlei Beach, during August and September, when the females calve in sheltered sandy-bottomed bays. The Southern Right Whale is distinguished from other whales by its V-shaped blow and the callosities (pale brown patches) around the head. Although barnacles and other sea life live on these patches, the callosities are actual growths of tough skin forming different patterns on each whale, and are a useful form of identification for researches.

The whale’s “blow” which is 4-5 metres high, consists of water vapour which, as it cools, condenses under pressure. The blow also contains an oily mucous from the respiratory tract of the whale.

Whales have a large brain and are sensitive creatures and in normal circumstances are non-aggressive towards man. Strong bonds exist between females and their calves. The roles that these whales provide in the marine ecosystem are important and they are therefore of greater benefit to us alive.

Sedgefield Today

The tortoise sets the pace in the picturesque village of Sedgefield, set in a valley between pine-covered hills and unspoilt beaches. To the west lies Swartvlei, largest of the lakes in the District and a safe bathing lagoon for young and old. To the east lies Groenvlei. In between these lakes lies Sedgefield, a small town that is very much in touch with nature. You’ll find a rich and varied plant, animal and bird life, which can be viewed in the town’s gardens, and along the many hiking trails and at the bird hides in our parks and reserves. The popular Outeniqua Steam Train that transports good and passengers between Knysna and George stops at the Sedgefield Station several times a day. Don’t miss this outing – it is an unusual and exciting way of both seeing the lakes, and capturing the spirit of the past.